Sea of Cortez and Copper Canyon Tour

By Park Docent Elinor Hallowell

"Gloves and a warm hat for early morning".
"Bathing suit and beach shoes".
"A set of warm night clothes".
"Windbreaker and seasick remedy".

Finally packed for a week of exposure to diverse climates and geography, 30 members of the TCP Community joined 20 other people on a Lindblad Expedition to Mexico's Sea of Cortez and the Copper Canyon. A long day of travel brought us to La Paz in the late afternoon, where we boarded M.V. Sea Bird, our floating home for the next three days. The ship's Captain, crew, and Lindblad naturalists cordially greeted us and our first dinner gave us every indication that we would be well fed.

Our first morning at sea, early birds watched the sunrise near Isla Monserrate, about 100 miles north of La Paz. Some folks had not yet found their "sea legs" and felt more comfortable lying in a deck chair or bunk. The morning was spent looking for marine mammals and birds while the ship made its way past mountainous and uninhabited islands. We were richly rewarded with sightings of two kinds of dolphins, frigate birds and other endemic species. Snorkeling was an afternoon option after which we went ashore for arroyo hikes on Isla Catalina. We were thoughtfully divided into fast, medium and leisurely paced groups. Each group learned a lot about local flora and fauna. This was the standard set by Lindblad Expeditions for the whole week.

One of the naturalists was an undersea specialist whose videos enabled non-snorkelers to see what lay below the nutrient-rich body of water. Each day we explored a different island, viewing seabirds and red sally light-foot crabs clinging to the rocky shoreline. Spotting other birds and plants on island walks was also a favorite activity. On Isla San Francisco, we were treated by the crew to a sumptuous beach barbeque. A roaring bonfire kept us warm as night temperatures dipped. One day, some of us had the thrilling experience of snorkeling among playful sea lions while others chose to explore the coastline by kayak. Enthusiastic birders were taken to a mangrove swamp where we saw 17 different birds! Just as we were getting used to pampered shipboard life (where the next day's events were written out each night and left on your pillow with a chocolate!) we had to bid adieu and adjust ourselves, in body and in spirit, for the land part of this trip, at much higher altitudes and lower temperatures.

We disembarked at La Paz and proceeded by motor coach to the small town of El Fuerte and the charming Posada del Hidalgo. Here, after lunch, we did a guided walkabout and were treated to a "float trip" on the local river. Many birds were spotted as we were rowed, in leisurely fashion, along this gentle river. The next day, after an early breakfast, we boarded the train for a seven hour trip to the rim of the Copper Canyon. The train was comfortable, the tunnels numerous and the views spectacular. We got to the Posada Mirador with ample time for a stroll around the area, bird walk or for just enjoying the view from our individual balconies before a lovely sunset and dinner.

Day seven dawned clear and brisk. A few hardy souls hiked down into the canyon. Others enjoyed the abundant bird life visible from the hotel deck, strolling around the area, or buying crafts from the Tarahumara Indians. These Natives live in the canyon and walk up its steep trails to sell their goods at the rim. After lunch we boarded motor coaches for a long drive to Chihuahua. Our last night was in a luxurious hotel with water you could drink and toilets you could flush with impunity. A delicious farewell dinner and performance by a local ballet folklorico closed out a superb trip!

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